Category: Uncategorized

Lisbon

Alma – The best restaurant of the entire 2017 trip.  This a Michelin one star restaurant and the service, food and experience were all first rate. They did an interesting thing, for a small cover charge they bring you 4 small bites which were unusual and very artistic, it was well worth the small charge.  As an appetizer I had squid, chickpeas, tomato confit, baby chard, in squid broth to start.  Joanne had sardine, eggplant, roast peppers, bread crisps, smoked paprika mayonnaise as her starter.  The main courses were grilled Iberian pork presa, banana chutney, passionfruit and onion pickle, spiced molasses jus and confit suckling piglet, sweet potato purée, pak choi, orange jus.

Montemar – Large seafood restaurant near the covered market.  The meal was good but the restaurant was invaded by a bus load of 50 English tourists.

Cafe Lisboa – is one of seven other restaurant owned by the Chef at Alma.  We were there on an off night, only a few diners and the food seemed like it could have been very good, but there was nothing memorable about this meal.

Porto

Abadia –  Very traditional Portuguese restaurant.  We went there on our first night with Jorge. Pork and veal dishes seemed to dominate the menu.

Valentim Matosinhos – This was Jorge’s favorite seafood restaurant.  It is located steps away for the fish market in Porto.  We had a whole sea bass and it was delicious.

Douro Valley

Quinta da Pacheca – This is a wine estate that has rooms as well as a restaurant. The drive into the gate of this quinta at night gives you a wow effect. The property is elegant and so is the restaurant. We ate dinner with Jorge at the restaurant.  Dinner was a very affordable 3 course meal and each course was paired with a wine form the estate.

Quinto do Portal– This is also a wine estate and a restaurant.  We toured the winery with Jorge (the winery had a very interesting cork siding on the exterior).  Lunch was probably our best meal in the Douro valley.

Parma

Ristorante Cocchi – This was an Elizabeth Minchilli recommendation.  The restaurant is in a hotel about 10 minutes outside the centro.  This could of been a great dining experience but the restaurant was too hot.  As I recall the we shared a ravioli dish with 3 different types and I had the sliced bee for the second course , which was good, but I rushed to get some fresh air.

La Degusteria Parma – This is the restaurant of the venerable La Prosciuteria, which is one of the most well know places for proscuito in Parma.  The offer verticals of proscuito and parmigiano.  We had 2 lunches there and both were very good.

Trattoria Del Tribunale -This was another Elizabeth Minchilli recommendation.  Unfortunately were outside and there were people smoking near us which definitely impacted the taste of the food.  However, Joanne had the Nodino di vitello, which is a veal chop and she enjoyed it.  I had the guanciale and I have had better.

Angiol D’Or – This was our favorite restaurant in Parma.  It is located right outside the Baptistry.  We ate a lunch and dinner there.  The food and service were great.  We had melanzane parmigiana and maltagliati (typical Parma pasta where the dough is rolled and then cut into thin strips, producing noodles). We had a very nice dinner, we started with hamburger di gamberi and the gnocchetti.  The secondo was a thick lamb chop and filetto di maiale.

Modena

Franceschetta 58 –  sister restaurant of Osteria  Francescana.  We ate the smart lunch and it was delicious.  I had the Emilia Burger by Massimo Bottura which was a slider that came in a typical McDonald’s type box, but it was no McDonald’s burger. The second courses were pork belly with balsamic vinegar sauce, carrot and ginger purée and sautéed spinach, and roasted octopus, cauliflowers and octopus emulsion.  Yum!  We returned here in 2019 and I once again started with burger and then had fussili with clams.  Joanne had 2 types of zucchini with a cheese sauce for a starter and then a delicate breast of guinea fowl.  This is one of our favorite places.

Locanda del Feudo – I must thank our neighbor Carolyn for suggesting the restaurant.  We also stayed at the Inn before our flight to Portugal from the Bologna airport.  It was one of our best meals in Italy.  The service was so attentive and the chef prepares artistic food.  We had gnocchi di ricotta to share,  rolle di coniglio (rabbit cooked in the oven with peppers and onions), and a black pork cutlet Bologna style with pureed vegetables.

Bologna

Osteria Broccaindosso – We had 2 dinners here during our stay in Bologna in 2019 because it was that good. This is an authentic osteria in every sense. It was filled to the brim with local patrons having a great time. The menu is not that extensive, but all the pastas we tried were delicious. However, if you go, this is the place for Cotoletta. It was the best of all the Bologna restaurants.   The cutlet is topped with a slice of prosciutto  and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Broth and butter are then added to the pan and the dish is covered until the cheese melts.  It was delicious.  The cotoletta Milanese is thin, lightly breaded and they do not add the prosciutto or the cheese.  The other thing we were very impressed with at the restaurant was the lasagna with bechamel sauce. It was just right, not too heavy and very tasty.

Al Sangiovese – We ate here on the 2012 trip and were lucky to stumble upon it again in 2019. The restaurant is run by a husband and wife team that immediately make you feel welcomed. The service is very attentive and the food is even better. We shared the zucchini flan, and then had the pasta (gremagn0)with sausage in a white sauce and then the Cotoletta. It was delicious.

Osteria Bartolini – This is a seafood restaurant that the guide from our walking tour highly recommended.  We had 2 meals here on the 2019 trip.  A dinner and Sunday lunch.  At the lunch we shared delicious plate of spaghetti con vongole and then the branzino with vegetables.  At the dinner we shared a whole fish, which was delicately prepared lemon and herbs and started with mix of 2 types of fried calamari.

La Capriata – terrible sevice.

Nostrano – Hands down the best restaurant in Pesaro.  One star Michelin and it was evident from the service and the extras that it was worthy of the Michelin star.  Modern simple interior with plenty of space for the guests.  I had a delicious suckling pig and Joanne had the amberjack.

’59 Restaurant – Restaurant located in the Excelsior Hotel in Pesaro.  It was surprisingly good.  There were families with children in the restaurant that night, but that just added some entertainment.  The food was delicious and definitely worth a second visit.

Ristorantino Primasecca – In Fano.  Special seafood restaurant south of Fano and on the beach.  We had a whole branzino which was delicious, but way too much food because we split a pasta as a starter.  Delightful walk on the beach after lunch.  Very memorable.

Alta Marea Ristorante – Our first day in Pesaro in 2017.  Nice restaurant down the street for the Excelsior.  We ate outside and had a large mixed fried seafood platter  and a plate of the house ravioli, which really hit the spot after a day of traveling.

Andreina – In Loreto (near Recanati).  Another Michilin star restaurant and we were not disappointed.  The service was exceptional and the food was delicious.  I started with the capriolo, which is deer meat that was very tender and continued to cook via a heated plate.  Joanne had a starer called -The shrimp runs after the hare, which was a shrimp and rabbit dish artfully prepared. Main courses were Rombo (white fish) and Guinea Fowl.

La Cantina Di Ale – Hotel Palazzo Bello in Recanati – Wonderful pizza bianca and aperitif  before dinner at Andreina.

La Ginestra – In Recanati – small local restaurant and the only piatto memorable was the roasted peppers!

Osteria La Guercia – In Pesaro, local cuisine, but nothing memorable other then tight seating and a lackluster menu.

Il Bacio – in Gradara right outside the castle.  We had a tranquil lovely lunch in an outdoor courtyard.  The food was simple, but good.

In 2024, we returned to Amsterdam after our trip to Rome. We stayed at the Pulitzer and enjoyed the comfort and location of the hotel.  We ate at Bussia, and tried an Asian rice table -Long Pura (one and done), and a traditional Dutch restaurant, The Pantry, which was cosy, with good food and a nice neighborhood filled with restaurants.  We managed to eat apple cake every day, our favorites were Winkel and New Dutch Amsterdam.  We toured with Marten from With Locals and a great walk around town and covered the history of Amsterdam.  We also went to the Van Gough museum for an exhibit on the Impressionists.

Restaurant Bussia – Our favorite restaurant in 2015.  Near hotel in the 9 block corridor.  The restaurant served Italian food with a French influence. This is accompanied by an impressive choice of fine Italian wines. The food was well prepared with great service. We missed this restaurant in 2017, but made it back in 2019.  We had a very personable Italian waiter who carried on a conversation with us in Italian. The meal was delicious; they are starting to get a little more upscale, there were several waiters serving the dinners, and a few starters magically appear at your table which are artistically created.  We had a burrata, tomato and beet salad to start, I had the gnocchi with black truffles; Joanne had beef ravioli. We each had different shared entrees, one beef and one fish.  All were paired with Italian wines.  This is still our favorite place in Amsterdam.

Lucius – Seafood restaurant.  We ate there our first night in 2017.  It was good seafood, but we can get better seafood in Seattle.

La Oliva Pintxos y Vinos – Ate there with Sabine and her 2 daughters.   Very nice restaurant and atmosphere.  Great selection of pintxos and some tasty dishes are served as well.

Nooch – Nice Asian restaurant near hotel that delicately fuses modern Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, Indonesian and Thai kitchens.  There were a nice variety of dishes with different spice levels. In 2017 we visited Nooch 3 times.  We had two lunches there and dinner with Joanne’s cousin Linda and Johan. In 2019 we found the popularity of this restaurant is growing.  We had a nice meal here, but the place was packed.

Jun – Ate dinner here our first night back in Amsterdam in 2017.  It is an Indonesian rice table restaurant.  The food was very good.  I started with delicious chicken soup and then they brought small portions of food paired with rice.  Nice experience.

da Silveren Spiegel This restaurant was recommended by the concierge at the Pulitzer.  It was on the edge of the red light district in a historic canal house.  The meal was good and worth going back but they seemed to try too hard to create unique dishes such as the starters which were; mushroom pastry puff, chicken liver w/chocolate, and onion bob bon.   The main meal was 4 course – Dutch trout, vegetable flan, partridge (Joanne), aged steak (Rob), and stewed pear for dessert.  The setting was great, and the food was worth another try.

Jansz – This is the restaurant at the Pulitzer and it is very good.  Very nice setting and certainly convenient.  We ate here in 2017 and 2019.

Blue – this is a sleek, glass-fronted cafe & bar at the top of a modern shopping complex, for panoramic city views which cannot be beat.  We had a nice lunch here in 2019 and got to watch a rain storm rollin and move out.  A must stop on our next trip (found on Pinterest).

Buffet van Odette – We had a lovely lunch outside in 2019.  We were on our way to a museum and the concierge recommended this restaurant.

Look into: Toscanini, L’invite, Carsten’s, Foodism, Gerb Hartering, Cafe De Klepel, Kaagman & Kortekaas (Lunch)

Spello

La Cantina – In 2015 ate there twice.  Very authentic food, great service and affordable wine list.  We saw some of the best dressed people in Italy in the restaurant. We ventured back in 2017 and had another delicious meal. Joanne had Farro salad followed by Agnello Scottadito.  I had Parmigianna di Melanzana and Tagliata di Manzo. 🙂 We ate there twice in 2018.  The first time we shared the parmigiana flan and the piccione pate(excellent). I had the guanciale cheeks for dinner and Joanne had the lamb.  Same waiter from last year.  The second time we split three courses: -eggplant parmigiana, Ravioli with zucchini pesto, and the lamb dish Joanne had a few nights earlier, cubed lamb with tomatoes and olives. Very good. Think it is our 5th time there.

Ristorante Il Pinturicchio  Had dinner and Sunday lunch in 2016.  It was fun people watching on Sunday.  Sunday lunch is a big thing in Spello.  We returned with Judy in 2018.  Joanne and I shared an eggplant flan, I had the sliced steak (a little tough), and Joanne had a huge lamb dish which she enjoyed..

Enoteca Properzio  Roberto is the proprietor and he served a small multi course meal to be paired with his wines on our first visit in 2015.  He is able to get unique wines and his shipping prices are reasonable.  We returned in 2017 and were treated royally.  We started with bruschetta with the olive oil pressing and then the wines poured freely.  Roberto is the exclusive distributor for Tili and they make incredible wines.  We tried at least six wines and were treated to pasta with black truffles. I was drunk enough to bring home 3 cases of wine! We returned in 2018 for 5 days and stayed at one of Roberto’s apartments.  It was an incredible time.  He was very generous with us.  Dinner the first night was at Enoteca Properzi.  Bruscheta, pasta with white truffles, eggplant parmigiana and manzo polpette.  Yes way too much food.  We tried the Pinot Nero fro Fendi and the Sleeping Beauty from Arnaldo Caprai.  Roberto also set us up with a tour at Caprai, where we met Elinora who lived in Seattle for 10 years.

Ristorant Locanda del Postiglione – It was on Via Roma in the main piazza at the base of the town. We ate there in 2018 based on Roberto’s recommendation.  Great service, we split a pasta with truffles and herbs, and we had a grilled rolled maiale.  The food was good and we could not believe that it took us 3 years to eat there.  Obviously a popular place with the locals.

Ristorante Porta Venere – Our first dinner in Spello in 2017.  To be fair it was a light dinner we had eaten at Enoteca Properzio.  Worth another visit from what we ate.  Roberto does not like this place!!!!!

Ristorante il Molino – Grilled meats over charcoal.  2015 first night in Spello.  The waiter was nice but needed a shower.

Gubbio – Ristorante Picchio Verde – after our tour of Gubbio with we had a lovely lunch here.

Spoleto – Trattoria Del Festival – Really nice lunch during our walking tour of Spoleto.  The brought us a so-called “souvenir” after we had already ordered which was a complete pasta starter, then we had the pasta started we ordered to share and then a secondo.  It was a lot of food but all good.  We returned in 2018 with our guide Marco.  We had an antipasto plate of local Umbrian goods. We ate gnocchi with local tomato sauce, it was full of herbs. They also brought us some delicious beans in chicken broth on the house. The portions are large and something always appears on the table out of the blue such as the beans and cookies for desert.

Assissi –Nuova Osteria La Piazzetta – Best lunch of 2015.Via S. Gabriele dell’Addolorata, 15, Assisi. Phone:+39 075 815352

Bevagna  – Osteria Antiche Sere – We had a nice lunch here.  Joanne had the rabbit.  Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, 10, Bevagna +39 0742 361938.  In 2018 we had porchetta from the famous truck ousside the gates.  Non vale la pena.

Todi – La Mulinella -In 2018 on our wat from Orvieto to Spello we stopped outside  of Todi and ate at La Mulinella.  Rustic, stone farm-house decor and incredible food. Homemade cheese bread to start and we shared the Umbreccilli di Casa which was a rich tomato sauce. We also shared the rolled cinghiali with porcini, it was ridiculously good.  Great find!

Montefalco – Coccorone – Very enjoyable lunch in 2018. We share the eggplant with zucchini flowers, and then the lasagna with white sauce and more eggplant.  We then went to tou the Arnaldo Caprai winery.

Orvieto

I Sette Consoli – Returned in 2018 for the deconstructed eggplant parmigiana, it was different but still good. We followed with another appetizer of ricotta and chicory balls in a tomato sauce. It worked. Joanne had a slow cooked veal dish that was very tasty, I had the deboned quail stuffed with fois gras.  It was very good. The restaurant was not as vibrant as previous years.

Altarocca Wine Resort  wine tour and lunch at Altarocca in 2018. Lunch was very good – multi-course meal that started with ravioli with rabbit, pasta with sugo di anatra, and rack of lamb. Light white was the best white, and the 100% Merlot the best red.  Wine is still not top notch.

Trattoria La Palomba -This restaurant is the best of Orvieto lists. It is a small family operation, I had umbrecelli pasta with truffles, and the filetto with truffles. Joanne had the cinghiale stew, which seemed good. It is small, crowded and very local.  I remember it being too hot to enjoy my meal (2018).

Il Cocco – Dinner started slow, but ended fine. I shared the Umbrecelli all’amatriciana with Joanne and had the Osso Bucco, which was tender and tasty. Joanne had the cinghiale with prunes. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano for the wine.  Linda Owen recommendation.  They treated us well, even though the service was slow.

ALBA

Dulcis Vita -Fantastic Truffle Dinner – great chef. Second trip in 2014. with David and Katherine was a lot of dun.  Known for their truffle dishes. Luxurious, white jacket service.

La Bottega Del Vocoletto -Via Bertero, 6, +39 0173 363196.  Small rest with great food and service (and big tables).  Very attentive service.  First night of the 2014 trip.

OsteriaDell Arco – Restaurant committed to slow cooking.  The food was good, but the service was a little stuffy.

Eno Club – shares entrance with Caffe Umberto. REstaurant is downstairs in a restored building, and cave like setting. Very good truffle dinner.

Trattoria Pane e Vino – in Cherasco about 45 minutes from the Contratto Champagne Cellar.  Very nice Osteria. .

Osteria Scaccipensieri in Canelli  and five minute walk from the Contratto Champagne Cellar.  Owner/chef very personal.  Ate lunch there in 2014 -with D&K.  DAvid said it was the best truffle meal of the trip.

Barolo

Osteria La Cantinella di Cravero Nella -Had Lunch there with David and Katherine in 2014.

Ovada

Ristorante Archivolto Osteria – Ate here twice – known for their Chianina beef.  Could be the best in Italy. Piazza Garibaldi 25-26

Ristorante Grotta Di Ravera Marco – Good place for lunch. Via S. Sebastiano 15, 15076 Ovada, Italy

Il Campanile Ristorante, Ovada, in Piazza Garibaldi, 29. Branzino whole fish for lunch.

Paris

La Cordonnerrie – Our favorite restaurant. It’s near the Hotel Regina.Simple family style cooking but the chef is personable and attentive. We sat in the Kitchen and had the chefs attention all night long.Have eaten there twice.

Drouant by Antione Westermann – Love this place – near the Hotel Regina for a special night out restaurant. Expensive, fancy and excellent food and service. They have the 4 selections plates for apps and desert.  We have been there twice.

Aux Lyonnais -Alain Ducasse restaurant dedicated to the authenticity of the Lyonnaise.  Friendly and helpful staff, French comfort food and a reasonable wine list. Also not a “touristy” place, everyone at the restaurant appeared to be locals.

Restaurant LE CHARDENOUX DES PRES  -This is the bistro version of Cyril Lignac’s starred restaurant. I had the croque-monsieur to start. The food was good, but they rushing to get us out and I assume turn the table over, which is so unlike Paris.

Il Forno Di Napoli – Best pizza in Paris, maybe even Italy.

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Venice Restaurants 

Al Gatto Nero Da Ruggero  On the island of Burano.  Our favorite seafood restaurant. We had the big family lunch here in 2013 and returned in 2014. Also ate here in 2017 with Joyce & Joe.

Bistrot De Venise – My favorite restaurant in Venice.  there is a lengthy wine list and “historical” cuisine at this restaurant in a location known for its atmosphere near Piazza San Marco.  Expensive $$$

Osteria La Zucca – This is a fun, hard to find restaurant. La Zucca is in Santa Croce, and you should run across it as you approach the Campo San Giacamo dell’Orio from the Grand Canal.  Almost vegetarian, but there are some meat option.  Worth looking for.

Al Gondolieri – Near the Peggy Guggenheim museum.  Old style Venice with rigid service.   It is not for everyone, but I enjoyed it.  Ate bere again in 2017.  I had the liver and onions with polenta it was very good.  However very touristy vibe tonight.  I will say they get an A for the wines they carry by the glass.

Hostaria Ai Coristi – Seafood restaurant near La Fenice.  Elsa took us there. It was a locals only restaurant that served a great seafood appetizer.

L’Osteria Di Santa Maria – Located in Campo Santa Marina, in the Sestiere of Castello, the oldest Sestiere of the city.  Wonderful dinner in 2017 with Joyce & Joe.  We ate outside and the dishes were artistically prepared and delicious.  We ate the suckling pig and it was one best I ever had.

Antiche Carampane – This was not easy to find, but well worth it.  This restaurant is a local gem that is on all the best of lists.  We ate here in 2017 with Joyce and Joe.  This is a family run business and they were very welcoming. The food focuses on seafood, but we ate guanciale and manzo and everything was delicious.  They also have an extensive wine list.

La Palanca -The is on the Giudecca, 448, great atmosphere in front of the grand canal with outside seating and one of the best views of Venice.  We ate lunch the with Joyce, Joe, Kevin & Jayne in 2017.  Fresh pastas and very affordable wine.

Osteria Da Rioba -In Canareggio located at Fondamenta della Misericordia 2553 near the Jewish Ghetto. The place gives great attention to detail, characterized by old beams and exposed brick with the typical Venetian floor. We had lunch there in 2017 with Joyce and Joe.  I had homemade pastas with bolognese sauce, Joanne had the agnoletti.   They were both artfully prepared.  Worth another visit.

Notes:  If you have a chance have lunch on the Giudecca it is a little quieter and great views of St. Mark’s plaza.  After lunch take the vaporetto one or two stops to San Giorgio Maggiore, don’t go for the church, but pay the 6 Euro to take the elevator to the bell tower.  The view is speculator and there are not too many tourists.

The other nice thing in Venice is the happy hour.  They call it Cicchetti.  It’s the Italian vision of tapas and wine.  Some people go from place to place and do it as dinner.  They are really popular and a simple search of best cicchetti bars will give you many options.  We like Enotecca al Volto and Al Portago. 

Other Restaurants we have visited:

Ristorante San Trovaso – Near the American Dinesen hotel.  Lovely outside seating area. +39 0415230835

Ca’ Pisani in Dorsoduro near the Accadamia.  We had a real nice luch there.  Sat outside on a wide strada.

RISTORANTE AL STORICO – on the Isola Della Giudecca. Nice setting.

La Bitta – restaurant known for serving just meat.  We were not impressed. Loud table of college girls, very annoying.

Osteria al Duomo –  on isola Murano, Fondamenta Maschio – nice courtyard.

Ristoteca Oniga -Campo San Barbarba.  Good wine bar with outside seating.  We ate dinner there but food was only fair.

Ristorante Al Covo – in Castello.  Lots of hype.  It was expensive.  Texas woman married to an Italian.  Over priced fancy food.

Il Cantone Storico – Right outside the hotel  We have passed it for years, but there for the first time in 2017.  Nothing Special.

Taverna del Campiello Remer in Cannaregio – worst meal in Venice, but very good cecchetti.

Riviera, Dorsoduro 1473, Venice +39 041-5227621 – need to try

Verona 2014/2019

Ristorante 12 Apostoli –  Best restaurant in Verona and maybe all of Italy.  12 Apostoli gained its name from twelve tradesmen who worked in this area in 1750. People from the city used to call them the “12 Apostoli.”  We returned in 2019 to a different restaurant, same location. It now carries a Michelin Star.  The experience was very nice, but I think the charm of the old restaurant was lost.  We had 4 menu choices and we picked the Sguardi (glances) menu and there were two delicious and separate main courses – sturgeon and  pork belly.  They did an excellent job of matching Italian wines to the various courses.

Trattoria Al Pompiere Best of the 2014 trip.  This is a classic Verona restaurant with delicious slice cured meats to start your meal.  Great selection of wines, and regional food that is prepared authentically and served in non fussy, efficient way. We returned in 2019 and the food was still good, but I felt cramped in the restaurant and it was overly hot.  We had a bit of an uncoordinated meal.  Joanne’s antipasto was the grilled vegetable contorno and seemed out of place.  I had the pork shank (stinco di maiale), and it was the largest shank I have ever seen.  It was good but a little too salty.  

Antica Bottega del Vino – Have eaten their twice and both time were good.  Mauro recommendation. We tried to get in 2019, but I screwed up the reservation.  Since our last time in Verona, the restaurant has really become a hang out for drinking wine.  there were lost of you people in the street outside the restaurant drinking wine.  The inside seemed crowded and noisy to me.

La Taverna di Via Stella – Good experience.  This a recommendation from Adrian.   Hard to find.

Ristorante Greppia – Have eaten here twice.  I would not go back.  Big, loud place where the specialty is bollitto.

Piazzetta    La Piazzetta was recommended to us by our AirBnB host, Georgia, and after we could not get in to Antica Bottega del Vino, we were lucky to find La Piazzetta.  It has very nice outdoor seating and a non smoking outdoor area which was the first I had seen in Italy.  We liked the restaurant so much we ate there twice.  The first night we shared eggplant millefoglie sliced steak.  They had Amorone by the glass and good service.  The second night we went for a light meal, but instead had had Tagliatelle withe mushrooms and black truffles, which was out of this world good.  We then shared a rich plate for fegato (liver) and onions in a wine reduced sauce, which was equally delicious.

Antica Trattoria dall’Amelia  After taking the funicular on Sunday morning to the other side of the Arno we walked along the river to this well reviewed restaurant.  We had Sunday lunch here and were very pleased with the food.  Their specialty is polpette and they were light and tasty accompanied by a salsa verde. We then shared Gnochetti with smoked ricotta in a butter and sage sauce, followed by the candied lemon chicken for the main entree.  It is rare find for us in Italy to eat a well prepared chicken dish.  It was delicious.  We liked the restaurant so much we went back our last night in Verona.  This time we started with codfish version of the polpette which were great, then spaghettone with rabbit ragu and we had the lemon chicken again, because it was that good.

Cafe Monte Baldo –  this was aperitivo and snack place on tyhe 2019 trip.  They have small plates that are sold like the cicchetti in Venice.  They also have dinner service, which we should try next time.

Impero – is the best place for pizza in Verona.  We ate there in 2014 and 2019.  Beautiful setting in the Piazza dei Signori.  Great place to watch people.

 Nearby Verona

Enoteca Della Valapolicella in Fumane, Valpolicella.  Via Osan 45, Fumane

Antica Trattoria Da Bepi in Marano di Valpolicella. Went there after the tour of the Lonardi winery.  Owned by Lonardi’s sister.

de Tarczal – Marano D’Isera.  Winery and restaurant recommended by Doumina.  We stoped on our way to Verona the day we left the Dolomites on the 2019 trip. We met with Elena Dell’Adami and tasted wine, which was ok, but we ere more impressed with the lunch.  I had pasta with Luccio (fish similar to Pike) with Polenta  Gnochette and  Joanne had the Orechetti with broccoli. We enjoyed the lunch.

Trattoria Due Cavallini in Mantova – we had lunch here in 2019, after a trip to the museum outside of town which was the Gonzaga summer residence. We shared Agnoletti in sugo dei pomodori, and  the slicedRoasted Veal. We also tried the Sbrisolona,which originated in Mantova, a crumbly almond cake that can be dipped in chocolate sauce. They serve horse and donkey – so beware.

Verona 2019 trip – we had a very nice AirBnb on a quiet street right outside the Porta Borsari. We had a nice host named Georgia, who was very helpful with local restaurants. She recommended La Piazzetta, where we ate twice, and she also recommended La Molinara, Da Ugo, Osteria Sottoriva (tavern), and Il Ciotolo. Pizza recommendations were; Impero, Leon D’Oro, Du De Cope. Aperitivo recommendatios were Cafe Monte Baldo, Terrazza Al Ponte, and Osteria Bugiardo.

We spent 5 nights in Verona, and as usual it started with some tension as we were looking for the place to park the car out side the zone limitata. We ended up in the Arsenale parking lot, which was a seven minute walk to the apartment. Our second day was a walk on our own to get a feel once afgain for the city. We had lunch at Impero in the Piazza dei Signori, and then met Marta (Douhmina’s guide). We had a good walking tour covering the history and architecture of Verona. We learned about the Porta Borsari the ancient Roman gate built in the first century AD during the imperial age. Porta Dei Borsari was named Porta Dei Borsari because it was the point of tax payment from travelers entering and leaving the city. Dinner that night was at 12 Apostili.

The next day was Sunday and we took the new funicular to the  Castel San Pietro. I cost 1 Euro and takes a little more than a minute to the viewpoint at the top of Colle San Pietro, offering its visitors one of the most wonderful and romantic views over the city. From the panoramic Terrace you can see the Adige river that flows under the Ponte Pietra and the historic centre, with its bell towers and its architecture reflecting every era. After that we walked alond the Adige to Antica Trattoria Dall’Amelia for Sunday lunch. After lunch we explored the Chiesa Di San Fermo Maggiore. It had a wonderfiul wooded roof which looked like the reverse of a boat hull. It was a real thing of beauty and church was interesting 0- 2 levels with interesting art and a good audio tour.

The following day we caught the bus to the train station and got on the train to Padova. We immediately went to the Cappella Degli Scrovegni –

Giovanni Pisano designed three marble sculptures for the altar (The Virgin Mary with Child and Two Angels). However, the chapel became famous because of the magnificent frescoes by Giotto di Bondone, who painted a total of 38 pictures in two years on the inside walls of the Cappella degli Scrovegni. The frescoes by Giotto, which are considered to be precursors of the Renaissance, show scenes of the life of Jesus and the Blessed Virgin Mary. The Last Judgement is depicted above the entrance portal and symbolic representations of virtues and vices adorn the side walls. On the triumphal arch over the altar you can see God, who instructed the archangel Gabriel to announce the birth of Jesus. With his frescos, Giotto broke the prevailing rules of painting and breathed life and a real vitality into his characters.

After a simple lunch (worst meal of the trip) we went to the Basilica of St. Anthony, which has been on my list for a number of years. The 13th century church itself is an incredible sprawl of architectural styles topped by some Byzantine domes. Inside, in addition to the relics, are stunning sculptures by Donatello and a famous 14th century fresco by Giotto. However, most come to venerate St. Anthony, who is the patron saint of lost things, in the hopes he might help them find what they’re looking for.  My grandmother always had a soft spot for St. Anthony and it was moving to be in his final resting place.

The next day we did another road trip, this time taking the car and going to Bardolino on Largo di Garda. It was about 45 minutes away and we had a beautiful sunny day to enjoy a walk and lunch on the water at the Hotel Catullo.

Our time in Verona was relaxed and found there are still parts of the city we need to explore. It is always good to to leave a little something unexplored.

Montepulciano

La Grotta – Sept 2018 we had lunch with Joan, Linda, Rita and Jo form our Italian conversation group here.  .It was one of the best restaurants of the trip. I started with an eggplant flan and had the suckling pig, which was awesome. Joanne had the pici with cherry tomatoes.  The setting is slightly outside of Montepulciano centro.  Loving setting with attentive waiters and an extensive wine list.  We need to go back.

Lucca

Volterra

We visited Florence in 2014, 2015 and 2016.  We stayed a few days in 2014, a week in 2015 ,and two nights 2016.  We stayed at the Santa Maria Novella hotel for all the trips.  Here are some of the restaurants we enjoyed during our stay in Florence. we returned for 3 nights in 2018. Stayed at the Santa Maria Novella hotel room 521. We did an overnight from Rome and Stayed at the Santa Maria Novella room 521.  We had another terrific meal at Buca Lapi, and two lunches at some very local tuscan restaurants -Trattoria Gozzi, and Trattoria Marione.

Ristorante Buca Lapi – Our favorite restaurant in Florence.  It is traditional Florence fare.  There is a heavy emphasis on bistecca. Open kitchen, friendly and professional service.  It is on the expensive side. Via del Trebbio 1r. We eat here every time we are in Florence.  We returned in 2018 and a delightful older waitress who enjoyed the Il Bruciato wine we ordered. We shared 3 plates, starting with the fried zucchini (lightly battered with just enough salt), and then we had the gnocchi in sage butter sauce and finally the roasted lamb, which was great. The waitress brought us a piece of chocolate torta  on the house because she said we picked the right wine.  Love this place.

Ristorante Buca Mario – Another traditional Florence restaurant.  It is a busy place, seats close together.  The steaks are the specialty.  We have the sliced steak here.  Ate there in 2014 and 2015. Less expensive than Buca Lapi. Piazza Ottaviani, 16r.

Ristorante dei Fagoli – Ate here in 2016.  It is a Coral recommendation. It is one of those Italian restaurants you’re always hoping to find. Wood paneled dining rooms, smiling cooks in the kitchen, the day’s specials up on a blackboard. Great service – cash only.  Try the meatballs.

La Cantinetta in Borgo – Restaurant near the Duomo. We ate here twice in 2015. Meat is the specialty, but it is a Wine Spectator selection as well.  Small space on San Lorenzo.

Tamero` Pasta Bar –  Went there with Coral in 2015, and returned in 2016. Great spot in Santo Spirito. Space inside is industrial looking and trendy. They also have an aperitif deal that is very reasonable.   Chef is from Sardinia. Pizza Santo Spirito, 11r.  We had another lunch there in 2018.  It is crowed at lunch time for a good reason, they have price fixe menu that is reasonable. I had the tagliatelle with tomato sauce and pesto – it was great. Joanne had gnochetti with a smoked cheese sauce (too rich for me).

Osteria dei Pazzi – Part of Coral food tour in 2015.  Traditional and reasonably priced Florence fare.  They are a little crazy like the name – there are cute sayings on the wall.  I liked it better than Joanne. Via Dei Lavatori 3r.o

Konnubio – This was a new restaurant we tried in 2018.  The food was great but the service was terrible. We shared meatless Mousaka, cappelletti Osso (Veal stuffed pasta), and a whole Branzino. Wait staff, young and inexperienced.  Would not return.

Trattoria Pandemonio –  A new find for us in 2018.  A little off the beaten path in the alto Arno.  It was a good place for our last meal.  Very much a home style restaurant with traditional dishes.  We shared the pasta alla mamma with meatballs and I had the osso bocca and Joanne had the filetto.  We’ll be back!

La Martinicca – Via del sole 27r. Near hotel.  Small restaurant with little character.  It was not a memorable meal.

Il Santo Bevitore –  Ashlee recommended, but we did not have a good experience here.  Via di Santo Spirito, 64.

Trattoria Sostanza – Typical fare but served with seating at group tables.  It was a bit awkward. Via del Porcellana 25r.

The follow are probably better suited to lunch or a snack. 

Le Volpe e L’Uva – Ashlee recommended. Great wine bar with good salads and small plates.  Near Piti Palace. Via dei Magazzini 2-4r.

Le Mossacce – Ashlee recommended.  Old style restaurant, where all tables are shared.  Daily menu.  It was fun.  Via Del Proconsolo 55r.

Signor Vino – Coral recommendation.  There is a wine shop attached to the restaurant.  There is an outside deck on the Arno with a great view of the Ponte Vecchio.  Worth it for the view.  Via de Bardi 46r.

Trattoria Giovanni – Ate there with Ellen after visiting the Brancacci Chapel in Santa Maria del Carmine. Via Sant’Agostino, 38.

IL Cantinone – Restaurant located in the cellar of the building.  Simple food. Via di Santo Spirito, 6r.

Osteria Zaza – Ashlee recommended.  Can sit outside.  It’s near the indoor mercato. Piazza Del Marcato.

Enoteca Sei Davino – aperativo there in 2018.

Fiesole –  Le Reggia degli Etrusci – We ventured to Fiesole for the first time in 2018.  We had to climb a mountain (very steep hillside) to get there. We shared a pasta dish called Paccheri Salsiccia and the filetto. It was great and warrents areturn visit. Service was excellent.

Florence Restaurants